Thursday, 3 October 2013

The Secret of Bottle Masala

 

“East Indian Catholic?” asked Marianne, her fork suspended in the air.

“But I thought you lived near Mumbai – and that’s definitely on the Western coast of India.”

“Yes, you are right. We live on the Western coast but we are called the East Indians” I reply.

This is a question we have had to answer many times before. So I rattle off – “You see, there are a number of probable reasons why we are called East Indians although we live in and around Mumbai. There are books and websites which would give you an explanation. For us, the simplest explanation is that some of our forefathers worked for the British East India Company.”

Marianne, satisfied with the logical answer, goes back to her lunch. She is our guest today.

“Yum...I have never tasted curries like these. The combination of spices is so different from other Indian cuisine.” Marianne is from Norway and loves Indian food.

“Yes, it’s different because there is a combination of up to thirty-six spices in this masala or spice mixture.”

“What is it called?”

“East Indian Bottle Masala.”

“Can I buy it somewhere?”

“Well, every family has its own recipe which is handed down from one generation to another, especially to a favoured daughter or daughter-in-law. So the Bottle Masala from every house tastes different. Some shops in our native town of Vasai do stock it but this mass-produced mixture doesn’t taste the same as the original.”

“Is there a procedure to make this masala?”

“Yes, in earlier days, the spices were measured out accurately, then sun-dried or roasted, and then stone ground. However, in modern times, women have careers and cannot devote too much time in the kitchen so they sent the spices to the mill.”

“Hmm” says Marianne, as she polishes off her chicken curry with rice.

Then she turns to the vegetables.

“Why is it called Bottle Masala? Surely it doesn’t contain any bottles or bottle gourd?”

We both laugh. Her question is amusing as this possibility never occurred to me before.

“After the spices are ground, the mixture or masala is tightly packed into dark-coloured beer or wine bottles. Most families make this masala in bulk in the winter to last for one year. They stow away these bottles in cool, dark places to preserve the freshness of the spices.”

“And do you use it only for specific curries like chicken and mutton?”

“Oh no ... there lies the real charm of the Bottle Masala. It is very versatile. We use it in non-vegetarian and vegetarian curries. We also use it in pickles.”

Marianne is now relishing the sweet dish. Then she asks the dreaded question.

“Can you make it?”

I smile awkwardly and say “Good question. The answer is no. I am yet to rise to the position of a favoured daughter or daughter-in-law or niece to be trusted with the recipe.”

“Then who makes this masala for you?”

“It is my Mum and Auntie Lucy who give me all the masala I need for one year.”

I can see the longing in Marianne’s eyes.

“I would love to have the recipe or the masala.”

“I know, most of my non-East Indian friends feel the same. People in Mumbai say a man is lucky to be married to an East Indian girl because he would get to eat such great food all the time.”

“Really? Is there no other way to get the recipe?”

“There are recipes available on the internet. My cousin, Avanti, who is the culinary expert in our family, has a good variation on her website – www.mhadesar.com. She has called it ‘meat masala’ and has provided some recipes for curries along with it.”

As Marianne gets up to leave, I give her a little jam bottle full of Bottle Masala.

The following week, she invites me for a demonstration of the exotic Norwegian ‘Lefse’ and a cake made from wild berries she has picked herself.
Now that is a ‘real’ cultural exchange.