It is not simply something
that people in Oman cook to eat.
It is a
reason for people in villages to come together and celebrate Eid al Adha by
participating in making this traditional speciality. It commemorates the sacrifice of Abraham.
The method
of preparing this meat dish called shuwa has several steps.
The
preparations begin a few weeks before Eid. The spices for the sauce –
coriander, cumin, cardamom seeds, red chillies, turmeric, and garlic – are ground
together with the help of mortar and pestle. Vinegar or tamarind paste is added to this
mixture for tanginess. This sauce is then refrigerated till it is ready to be
applied to the meat.
The
marinated meat is covered with banana leaves and tied up with woven palm
leaves.
The next
step is to dig a pit in the ground. It is a metre deep and is lined with
stones. It is fired with wood and coal.
When the
wood and coal is red hot, the marinated meat or shuwa is lowered into
the pit. The pit is then covered so that no smoke escapes and left alone for up
to 24 hours.
The next
day, people wait with bated breath to taste the result.
It is a
community affair and the villagers marvel at the tenderness of the shuwa
as it has cooked slowly underground.
Oman takes
its traditions very seriously and this is one truly Omani tradition.
(If you
would like to try this exotic dish, Kargeen Cafe in Muscat serves it year
round. If you want to cook it at home, I found a good recipe at http://www.thasneen.com/cooking/shuwa-slow-cooked-lamb-served-over-aromatic-basmati-rice-omani-delicacy/)