Saturday, 28 September 2013

Vasai Fort Revisited



A white plastic plate floats in the little stream made by the heavy rains. A fat frog hitches a ride on it.

The plate bobs up and down as it meanders through the thick vegetation that has invaded the old fort in the monsoon. On low spots little pools of clear water had formed. The vines clinging to the fort walls and the palm trees made their artistic reflections in the water.

We follow the plate till it is arrested by a cluster of white water lilies growing in a tiny pool. There are other plastic plates there pretending to be lilies. They have a slim chance of becoming lilies anytime soon because plastic is a tough material and takes forever to disintegrate.

The plastic plates seemed so out of place and ruined the moment of absolute beauty for visitors.  As we moved to the interior of the fort, we noticed more such evidence of human carelessness. We also noticed that there were no waste bins to collect rubbish anywhere in the fort.

It is an old fort built by the Portuguese centuries ago in the small town of Vasai near Mumbai. It has now fallen to ruins, but it offers spectacular views of the narrow creek and brings quiet to the mind. It has some majestic spots with high arches, massive doorways, huge churches, graveyards, tunnels and passageways.

While growing up, we used to picnic in some of the quiet spots. It used to be a special treat. Some adventurous children would ignore warnings and go around searching for hidden treasure amongst the tunnels which ran inside the fort. During those years, we carried fruit and other cooked food in baskets.

Sometimes there were rumours that ‘foreigners’ have come to visit the fort. In our small town where foreigners were hardly seen, it was always a curiosity to see what the white people from the West looked like, how they dressed, and how they talked. Groups of boys would then visit the fort ‘to see’ the foreigners who took pictures of them! The ‘foreigners’ were probably researchers from the West or the Portuguese descendants of the people who lived in the fort long ago.

Being close to Mumbai, the fort offers a historical setting for Bollywood films too. So people in our villages would go to have a look at the film stars who fought mock fights or danced around the trees singing songs in the rain.

A few years later, as young lovers, we sat in the nooks around the fort and made earnest promises that would last a lifetime and beyond. The fort was our silent witness as it had been to the young people from several generations.

We visit the fort every year. We have watched changes over the years – buildings being built inside the fort walls, a wall that crumbled in the rains, and an aged tree that fell in the storm, and so on. Echoes of local children playing cricket resound throughout the fort whenever we visit.
Most of the locals intend to conserve the natural beauty of this monument. Somehow.