The enormity of the landscape is astounding.
It tells the million-year-old story of the geological upheavals that
created the canyons, the tremendous pressure that shook the ocean floor and
exposed the earth’s insides and laid them out in folds and layers of molten
stone and sand.
The echo of the rumble can still be felt in an inaudible visual gasp.
Perhaps it had happened in a multitude of millions of years...or perhaps
in the scope of a single day.
The sun has been a silent witness to the epical unfolding of this topographical
drama.
This is the place where the sun’s rays plant the first kiss on the
Omani soil every morning.
A Surya Namaskar, a
salute to this mighty sun...
/Om Mitraaya Namah /
One who is
friendly to all
There were eleven of us, friends and friends of friends – Surya, Anna,
Royce, Sanaa, Reena, Bindu, Raju, Deepmala, Balaji, Stephen and I.
The heat in the city of Muscat during the month of May can hit dizzying
records. It was a warm and inviting sun which greeted us at 7.15 am when we started
our journey towards the Hajar Mountain Range in Northern Oman which features
the highest peak in the country, Jebel Shams – the Mountain of the Sun, and Wadi
Ghul – the Grand Canyon of Arabia.
/Om Ravaye Namah /
One who shines
The radiance followed us as our 4WDs moved from city speeds of 100 km/h
to highway speeds of 120 km/h. Bindu, Deepmala, and I took the steering wheels while Balaji, Raju, and Stephen
coordinated with each other about navigation.
We took a short halt at a wayside
eatery and discussed the road strategy ahead. The next halt was uphill to take
in the view. That was when we came across the first of the several mountain
goats we saw on our trip. She eagerly feasted on orange rinds – the only treats
we could give her.
/Om Suryaya Namah /
One who dispels
darkness and generates activity
Full of positive spirit, and taking turns at the steering wheel, we
approached the Jebel Shams Resort at 11.30 am.
Raju had used his negotiation skills to get a good deal on the current rates at the resort. Perched near the canyon, the resort offers a cluster of chalets having all the basic amenities for a comfortable overnight stay, a swimming pool, and a wonderful view of the sunset.
Each chalet has a barbecue pit in the back which held a special interest for Surya and Royce. At the picnic tables, Anna and Sanaa sipped on cool drinks.
Raju had used his negotiation skills to get a good deal on the current rates at the resort. Perched near the canyon, the resort offers a cluster of chalets having all the basic amenities for a comfortable overnight stay, a swimming pool, and a wonderful view of the sunset.
Each chalet has a barbecue pit in the back which held a special interest for Surya and Royce. At the picnic tables, Anna and Sanaa sipped on cool drinks.
/Om Bhaanave Namah /
One who illuminates
Although bright, the temperature was moderate at the height of
approximately 2,800 m.
Mountain goats with long hair in shades of cream
and brown cleverly climbed up in impossible places like the tops of skeletal
trees. Some of them took shelter from the strong light under whatever feeble shade they could find.
/Om Khagaya Namah /
One who is all-pervading,
one who moves through the sky
It was a calm day and bunches of pure white clouds floated idly in the
sky.
In the blazing mid-day sun, basked high-flying Egyptian Vultures.
Meanwhile, three engineers in our group debated about the direction in
which their droppings would fall. Stephen was quite sure it would be on his
head.
/Om Pooshne Namah /
One who gives
nourishment and fulfilment
Balaji had thoughtfully packed homemade tamarind rice and lemon rice for
lunch. Raju and Stephen had brought snacks and drinks.
The resort staff provided a sumptuous Arabic dinner and a continental
breakfast. It was incredible to eat such wholesome food in the inhospitable
terrain where we had planned to stay overnight.
On our evening walk, we came across an Omani colleague of Balaji and Stephen who was driving back home with his family. He stopped to offer us
fresh, sun-blushed apricots – a bounty of the rugged mountains.
/Om Hiranya Garbhaya Namah /
One who has a
golden- coloured brilliance
The setting sun brought a soft golden glow to the landscape. With a
little coaxing, Sanaa was inspired to sing melodiously –
“Tonight the super trouper
Lights are gonna find me
Shining like the sun
Smiling, having fun
Feeling like a number one.”
/Om Mareechaye Namah /
One who gives light
with infinite rays
The raw morning sun rays touched the mountain.
They shone on flaming pomegranate flowers and bushes of pink roses. Wide
awake, goats bleated morning greetings in the distance. The chill slowly gave way to warmth.
My early morning walk fetched a unique discovery – a dried up clump of low
vegetation with translucent leaves so fragile that they would crumble if
touched. The rays of the sun passed through the leaves as if they were made of
clear glass.
/Om Adityaaya Namah /
One who is the son
of Aditi, the cosmic divine mother
Along the stone paths, Deepmala noticed fossils of small ancient sea
creatures embedded in the black rocks streaked with white marble.
It was impossible to lose track of the geological history of the landscape while walking around these mountains.
It was impossible to lose track of the geological history of the landscape while walking around these mountains.
/Om Savitre Namah /
One who is
responsible for life
Jebel Shams stands tall at more than 3000 m but what is more fascinating
is the deep Wadi Ghul lying alongside it. The Wadi or dry riverbed is also
called the Grand Canyon of Arabia because of the deep vertical fissure it
exposes.
Several species of cacti and sparse vegetation thrive here in isolated
patches. A few houses of local shepherds and a pop-up stall selling handicrafts
made from goat hair were the only signs of civilization in these parts.
/Om Arkaaya Namah /
One who is worthy
of praise and glory
Reena, who has flown the nest to join college overseas, draped her arm around her mum's shoulders and chatted animatedly with her.
The starkness of nature here contrasts vividly with the security of being with people you love.
The starkness of nature here contrasts vividly with the security of being with people you love.
Thoughts of gratitude for divine blessings arise.
/Om Bhaskaraya Namah /
One who gives
wisdom and cosmic illumination
A spray of innumerable stars graced the moonless sky at night.
Witnessing such celestial majesty brings home the truth of our own insignificant
lives.
Bindu cleverly captured a shooting star on her phone camera.
Bindu cleverly captured a shooting star on her phone camera.
For those of us who missed this heavenly sight, there is always a next
time.
Inshallah!
